i got my wasp 2040 yesterday with the clay extruder. also compressor, the right valves etc. now i start. just a quick question: what is the alcohol for you mentioned?
thanks for sharing thoughts. i will be here now daily to share my results and learnings aswell!
alcohol wise I bough some ethnol to use in the mix but havn’t tried it yet, it can be expensive depending on what its labled
as (either for industry “ethol” or a high percentage drinking alcohol works too), I think its all the same for our purpose, I used vodka and water before with a good result but it depends on how much water is existing in the clay body so every mix will be a little different. I think they reccomend around 5 percent alcohol to help it move along.
I haven’t had that failure at 20% yet, best open a support ticket from the WASP site. Try setting the zmax value to the values they
provide in the manual :
Change the Z eight of the printer following this procedure:
menu » prepare » modify Zmax » Zcorrect -16.50
or:
menu » prepare » modify Zmax » Z home + 425.5 (for Delta 4070: +752.5)
in the delivered firmware for cure are two plug ins installed. one is twaek at Z. i disabled it, becaus eit leads to stop at a certain z height, that is markd in the plug in. so this was it with my initial problem.
i also have another question: the extrusion tips seem to be common supply for other usages. i would love to have a bunch of them, so when one is stuffed or broken, i can have a lot of spare ones. anybody knowing where to get them. i guess it´s penny things and not worth to buy at wasp directly.
i´m quite successful now with the 3d printing of ceramics. but come to the next level and see there might be problems with the firing. because of the infill structure, i create air infills in my object. that propably leads to explosions during the firing, because the air chambers widen, and crahs the ceramics. anybody experiences with that allready?
no I’ve not experience that yet, but a good point to now consider in my deigns is to try and avoid
potentially sealed up air pockets. Maybe it could be done by modeling in an air flow channel through the infills
leading out to a less noticable area so theres no sealed off areas for pressure build up, but I guess it depends on the application.
I’m thinking maybe I could print a clay raft, the on top, my clay form as normal and once its in a leather green state to take
the clay cutting wire and slice off the bottom raft, leaving the infills bottom exposed and now open to
air, maybe firing it upside down with that exposed could help. Or filling in the forms infills in the first place at the cost of extra clay would be a (expensive) soloution.
I had no problems with the pieces I fired and they had little gaps between the walls. I try to build solid walls now to avoid this problem but again the pieces with little gaps fired nicely anyway. I have had some cracking on some pieces but they happened where the build layers were not tight enough together. Also I have adjusted my models now so I make the bottom the same thickness of the walls or even thinner so the drying in more consistent.
i started now to use the more tiny tip with the printer to refine my outcomes. works good in the results.
during the first cleaning i recognized, that the bearing is totally fixed to the screw spring connector. i cannot dismanthle the extruder as stated in the manuals. not my fault.
this leads to leaking in the top of the extruder. between bearing and the plastic part/container.
very disappointing. clay comes out of that front slit frequently in bigger blobs.
did anybody had this problem too?
i allready maild the WASP customer service about it.
for now i try to fix it with some rubber ring, to prevent from leaking.
