iCloud
October 15, 2015, 2:29pm
5
Yes sorry autocorrect messed up and the trace may have burned the board and that’s why your new board can’t read a heated bed becuase the bed blew up and took the motherboard with it so when you plugged in your new board it’s not blowing up because the board is dead possibly
I’ll check the bed trace for continuity.
I accidentally shorted the thermocouple with the 24v of the heater cartrige. That burned the the voltage amplifier in the mob for that thermocouple and numerous other components in the mb. I replaced the mb and got 2 new thermocouples for the extruders from maker geek from maker geek. The mounting is the same as the old thermocouple. I don’t know if the bed got messed up when the old mb burned, but that was my assumption that the cap or the thermistor got screwed up. I am not totally sure how they would mess up though since the bed circuit an extruder circuit look to be isolated from each other by what I can see in the mighty board schematic.
iCloud
October 15, 2015, 2:52pm
8
I have loads of parts for these machines if you need any a replacment heated bed di think are around £40 and they are flahsforge style so they read properly straight away and don’t require changing the thermistor, and if you touch any two positive and negitive wires on these machines the board blows as there is no diode back protection
Yeah, that’s how I blew the first mb. I am trying to fix my bed though, are you saying it’s broken beyond repair? Can I test the connection on the connector and see if I am getting proper voltage from the motherboard? Or will this fry my board? I know if the motherboard gets no read from the thermistor it will not turn on the 24v to heat the bed. But there should still be voltage coming into the Bed from the mb into the thermistor circuit.
iCloud
October 15, 2015, 4:07pm
10
If you get a thermistor stick it in the red and yellow connector wires on the heated bed connector on the right hand side of the connector and the connect the multimeter to the red and black wires and turn the machine on the bed will read like 150+ °c and turn on the heated bed and that’s the quickest way to measure the voltage
Thanks. I’ll try that tonight and post back.
So I just did this and I got no voltage from the red and black wire. I am guessing that means my motherboard has something wrong.
iCloud
October 16, 2015, 4:48pm
13
Was the printer reading the thermistor over what you set it ? I remembered that you have to get it to read below 130°c before the heated bed turns on and I think your board is blown not your new motherboard
I did what you said to connect a thermistor and try and measure the voltage. I got no reading on my meter. I have homed out the bed though sig and ground and I get 57k ohm. It drops in resistance when I heat it and increases when I cool it. That leads me to believe the bed is ok and my mb is not sending out 5v to the bed. I’ll trace it back to the mb and see if it I can get a 5v reading.
iCloud
October 16, 2015, 5:24pm
15
Have you checked the wires for any damage but also the 5v source is just for the LED isn’t it? Shouldn’t affect the function of the bed but when you put the thermistor into the connector what did the printer read?
I thought te thermistor circuit ran on 5v, that’s besides the point. I did exactly what you said, I connected a thermistor directly to the connector, red to yellow then I turned on the printer. It still showed NA for temperature. If by doing this is supposed to read 150 then my mb has to have something wrong.
iCloud
October 16, 2015, 7:07pm
17
I did this by accident once I switched of the heated bed option in replicator g and forgot and my printer said NA for build platform temp if you plug the machine into rep g flash sailfish on to it and selected bhp installed to yes and plug in your heated bed the. It should read it
This sounds like it could be that. I did flash to sailfish. I’ll try it tonight. Thanks for all the help.
CTC has very bad extruder design and also they have USB key so you can not use generic filament after every filament roll they are forcing you to buy another USB key and often during the print it will stop false error will come up Roll INv. means change USB key. more then half the jobs dissenter extruder need major update
Mine does not have a USB key. My printer works great except for the mentioned issue with the hbp
The extruder design is very good in the CTC printer, they did not design it. As far as the USB+ keys go, they can be reprogrammed at home. Also the usb+ timer counts preheat time, making it extra sucky.
My CTC printer is not working any more its showing on display ROLL INV. that is because of USD key before dying it already had lot of issues with extruder. as “adamcooks” said USB key can be programmed at home can you or any body tell me how?
Man I dont like this CTC dual head printer it gives me lot of troubles from the beginning instead i found ver nice with prusa i3.
iCloud
October 22, 2015, 1:06pm
23
It’s not a usb, don’t plug it into a computer as it will blow it and what you need to do is reflash the software with sailfish which I think is out of your capability as it’s quite a hard process as you have to do it over serial not through usb search YouTube for usb ctc and you will find the video how to fix
I’ve never dealt with the ones with USB. That makes no sense to me and I think it’s a scam. With that being said, the ctc is a great printer when you do certain mods. I’ve done 6 hour prints with no issues at all, but in the beginning I could barely leave it alone for 5 min.
