CTC 3d printer, hot end tube?

Aceadam · 2015-10-13T13:49:02.000Z

hi, i have ordered PTFE Teflon Tube ID 2mm OD 3mm for 1.75 Filament Makerbot Prusa RepRap 3D Pri... | eBay PTFE Tube ID 2mm OD 3mm for 1.75 i measured the outer diameter an it was 3mm and the inner was 2 so hopully this works lol

iCloud · 2015-10-13T15:22:24.000Z

If you have an address send me over a message on here and I’ll post you replacment ones free cut to size all you need to do is remove the nozzle and slide this tube in and out the nozzle back on

Thomas_Donnelly · 2015-10-15T19:59:54.000Z

Hi Dan,

Is it possible to purchase some of this tube of you as I have 3 printers down at the moment and am waiting for some from china which seems to be taking forever or do you know of a supplier in the UK?

Thanks for your time

Tommy

Aceadam · 2015-10-15T20:17:30.000Z

i have bought the tube, seems to fit well and i havent put it all back as im using the left extruder for now lol

iCloud · 2015-10-15T20:24:18.000Z

if you send me over a message I can work something out for you

Thomas_Donnelly · 2015-10-15T20:29:54.000Z

Hi Dan

I have only just joined this forum and can not find the messaging part could you possibly send me an e-mail to tjdonnelly2012@gmail.com

thanks for your time

Tommy

wickwire · 2015-10-17T13:12:00.000Z

New tube and new nozzle seem to have worked OK, a few prints in and it looks fine.

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Aceadam · 2015-10-17T16:03:30.000Z

wickwire great replies , i have got same tube but not fitted it all yet will do soon.

MakeCoolThings · 2015-10-20T20:06:41.000Z

I wrecked one of my teflon tubes, too. I bought a 5-pack of replacement hot-end barrels off Amazon but they had 4mm OD PTFE linings in them, and a lot of stuff just printed too differently for my taste. (PLA and ABS seemed to print fine, but PETG-- my bread and butter material --didn’t print right anymore.) Either due to the different barrel design, or additional thickness of teflon…

I finally just bought a meter of 3mm OD PTFE tubing and waited like a bloody month for it to arrive from Malaysia via slowboat while I used the lining from the left extruder to get the right one back up and running. Taught me an important lesson though; stock up on replacements of anything that can take down your printer!!!

Also, stay away from PFA. It’s supposed to be rated for the same temps as Teflon and it was easier to source in the right diameter, but if you take it up to 240°C to print PETG or something…it’ll LIQUIFY. Not melt or deform, LIQUIFY. (Invented some new curses for that one, I did.)

Fayaz_Choudhary · 2015-10-22T02:55:05.000Z

at first CTC dual extruder 3d printers are not recommended to buy it have lot of problems.

dazmatic · 2015-10-22T09:42:22.000Z

I whole heartedly agree.

There are indeed differing levels of 3D printers on the market. when I bought my CTC, I could have had a cheaper option like a Prusa I3 which required much much more assembly, set up and calibration.

OR I could have gone for the much higher end of the spectrum and got a stratasys or something like that (enter very expensive brand name here)

I’d never used a 3D printer before let alone knew anything about them, operations or materials. I opted for the CTC because it was already assembled taking out a lot of the work.

Straight away though I had issues, exactly as you’ve mentioned. The nozzles would clog, the prints wouldn’t stick, I couldn’t get replacement Kapton for the bed cheap, the extruders would skip on the filament.

Over all, it was a terrible machine which I couldn’t trust to run more than an hour without messing up.

It was from that I persevered with it, I replaced the stock fixed extruders with spring loaded ones which has solved the skipping on the filament. I replaced the PTFE tube with that which is 1mm longer so that it’s compressed in the thermal barrier tube, no more clogging or jamming.

I’ve since made a TON of other modifications and the print quality is fantastic but is still only as good as the settings I use.

My point being, no matter what level of user you are, no matter what level of machine you have, it’s still developing and there’s still a lot to learn.

I’ve recently built a Rostock legacy and had masses of issues with it, so much so I started to design MY OWN printer to repurpose the parts I bought for the Rostock. But I persevered with it and now it’s at a point where I’m happy with it. Just further reiterates my point above.

wickwire · 2015-10-22T09:54:52.000Z

… or maybe you’re just the kind of user who just wants a turnkey solution, something along the lines of a Nexpresso coffee machine.

If that’s the case, then perhaps it would be good to understand that 3D printing isn’t quite there yet, at that level.

While I disagree with your comments, I’ll back mine having owned one for a bit more than 6 months:

3D printing on FDM for the average consumer still has its quirks, regardless of how expensive the printer is
- clogging
- calibrating
- consumable parts replacement (overall maintenance)

… and whatever else I’m not thinking of right now

Buying a cheap 3D printer has enabled me to experiment with the technology and keep learning more about than I would otherwise
The printer is not without its limitations, but the prints are very, very acceptable in terms of detail and quality
It’s even accessible to hardware/software mods

MakeCoolThings · 2015-10-24T19:42:33.000Z

You’ve made 6 comments, and they’re all about how bad your CTC dual extruder is. You understand that it’s an exact copy of the MakerBot Replicator 1 dual, right? Just like the FlashForge and a half dozen other inexpensive Chinese-made printers.

Jams happen, that’s just how it goes with FDM printers. Doesn’t matter if it’s CTC or MakerBot. But I’ve had my printer for eight months now, and it’s only jammed once. If you wanted a maintenance-free printing experience, you should’ve spent a couple tens of thousands of bucks more.

As for all the problems you’re having with your CTC, have you tried checking to see if the #P38K4C register is set to 1?

MasterFX · 2015-10-24T20:16:40.000Z

I think so too.

My CTC has MK7 extruders (which are common) and after over 500 printing hours I didn’t had any problems. I had to exchange the PTFE tube only once (I bought 1m for 3€, so I can change it as often as I want) and two times the nozzle was jammed/blocked, but this happend when I change my Filament from ABS to PLA or TPU or vice versa. CTC is a pretty good printer! An you get it these days for < 400€ with dual extruder

Aceadam · 2015-10-24T20:46:55.000Z

I am so surprised at how many replies this topic has gained. This topic was made in order to fix this part which i have now done with plenty of ptfe tubing I can use for the future.

Fayaz_Choudhary · 2015-10-25T04:51:37.000Z

hi

not sure where it can be correct please #P38K4C register is set to 1? and also how to correct Roll Inv. error with beep.?

RobertPaul · 2015-10-31T09:27:28.000Z

The thermal barrier tube is held by a set screw. Unscrew that and take it out you’re done. Btw you shouldn’t mess with ptfe lined tubes…AT ALL… EVER. There’s no possible way to print reliably with this printer unless you get threaded thermal barrier tubes with no ptfe, and with thermal paste on the cold side of tyre tube ( not the side that screws into the heater block) , and thermal paste where the heatsinks touch the block. If you stick to ptfe lined barrels all I can say to that is good luck!

RobertPaul · 2015-10-31T09:29:42.000Z

With all due respect, although its a “clone”, makerbot released drawings to their replicator 1 that were wrong on purpose so all the Chinese clone makers got suckered. Original makerbot had threaded thermal barriers and worked.

gaehl · 2016-01-08T04:51:37.000Z

Does anyone know how long the tube is supposed to bet cut to?

INVENTion · 2016-01-08T19:19:06.000Z

34mm + or - 1mm