Karki
1
Hello!
Does anybody know what could be wrong ?
When I level the printhead with the given 0.1mm slide from the corners. Double check them that they are just right on the corners.
Then I manually drag it to the center and the printhead gets so close in the middle that it scrapes the bed.
It feels like the bed is convexed upwards ever so slighly towards the center of the bed.
Is there a possibility that my bed is warped ?
Or am I doing something wrong ?
Hi,
I had exactly the same situation.
You can first remove the іbed and check whether it is really flat.
Or you can try to fix it right away.
The problem is that the bed plate moves along two cylindrical guides on three bearings.
It is necessary to ensure that these two guides are located exactly in the same plane.
Try placing a thin stand under the left or right side of the printer’s front support.
Check how the printhead and the bed clearance changes in the corners and in the center.
Changing the thickness of the stand, you can achieve more or less precise flatness of the plate.
I had this problem in the early days of owning my i3 and tried many things to fix it before I got it right. Some suggestions: 1) Check to make sure your z-axis is level. 2) your y-axis bars could be out of level, causing the bed to have a convex shape. There are 2 set screws on each side of each of the y-axis bars. Unscrew those and tighten them to ensure each side of the y-axis bars are either in there upper most or lower most position. If one side is opposite the other, it will strain your bed in opposite directions causing the convex shape. 3)Your bed could just be warped. Mine was. You can buy another one on Amazon pretty cheap. If you do, look for one if better quality than sheet metal, one that will resist warping. 4) if suggest a glass bed if you don’t have one. I have mine floating on thermal pads and nothing else in place. Thermal pads are sticky enough to hold it in position, while giving the glass the flexibility to float and avoid the convex shape of the aluminum bed. Also, heat transfer with the thermal pads is great. Just run a PID tune and you’ll be all set. 5) not the best solution, but overtime there’s a good chance your printer could warm itself back out of that convex shape. Before I got the glass bed, all the sudden my printer no longer had the issue. Just one of those things with these printers. Good luck!
I played for a long time with the flatness of the plate.
Each new print was a lottery: during the printing of the first layer I needed to sit next to the printer and adjust the flow of the filament.
But then I replaced the plate with a handmade one with the attachment to three points.
I glued the PEI sheet to the plate. Now I just start printing and go away.
For three months there wasn’t a single failure, although I print almost every day.
Maybe tomorrow I will attach some photos of my upgraded printer.
The aluminium beds on these are not the best, there is every chance it’s bowed. I know a lot of people get round this by adding a glass plate. Alternatively you can try and flatten it out, I’d start by holding the plate down and fully tightening each corner and see if the can pull it straight.
Get a glass bed on top. I did that with a similar printer with a bowed print bed.
Hi Karki,
I have never had this issue so far on my Wanhoa, but some things that you can try out.
1. By far the best thing to do would be to straighten the plate out, Aluminium being a soft metal will straighten out with minimal effort. Also use a level gauge to check it.
2. As some one has already mentioned it could be the rails or bearing housing that could have a problem, but its highly improbable that they could have a convex bend !
3. The last thing I can think off is the black mat being stuck incorrectly and leading to some air trapped inside.
Hope this helps !!
