Hi all,
Wonder if any of you have any finishing and or bed tips?
At the moment I print on the glass sheet, sprayed with 3dlac (hairspray) for small abs prints at 110c and with abs slurry for larger.
Is this bed temp too high?
i have trouble getting the slurry prints off sometimes, maybe I should use less or dilute the slurry more?
On smaller prints I can get the prints on 3dlac off fine but as with the slurry, the part of the print on the bed has marks or with 3dlac comes off shiny.
Any tips to finish the underneaths off?
I can use acetone bath for smaller prints but for larger I get mixed results (container not airtight I guess).
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Alcohol takes some of the shine/3dlac off but marks still left over. How can I finish keeping original colour?
MB3D
July 25, 2015, 3:26pm
3
I’ve had good experience with buildtak. Sadly my printbed can just reach 90C which us a bit too low for ABS, so I still had warping parts when they were longer then 200mm. Definitely try out printing with a raft. Use a paintbrush and “paint” the print with acetone, that way you can control the acetone-to-ABS-contact. Also using a brush and liquid acetone instead of acetone vapor is much safer. If you use too much acetone on one spot the print will get whiteish and will feel “dull”. You should apply a bit of acetone with the brush and constantly brush the surface without applying more acetone, if you keep on brushing until the acetone has gone, the print should get the original color back. Alternatively plastic cleaners (used for spray painting) have shown very good results for removing any colorchanges. Try to store the acetone in multiple bottles and use only one per color. If you brush acetone on black ABS the dissolved ABS will partially be left over on the brush and if you dip it into the bottle again the acetone will turn black. So in the best case you have one bottle of acetone and a brush fir each ABS color that you’re smoothing. PS: 100-120C are common bed temperatures for ABS. ABS is a copolymer (a blend of different “plastics”) and each brand uses a different blending ratio of those plastics “A”, “B” and “S”*, so the bed temperature varies a bit for different ABS brands and sometimes even colors. *ABS = acrylnitil + butadien + styrol, hence the name. Some brands use more acrylnitil, others more butadien or styrol, therefore there isnt one perfect bed or nozzle temperature for all ABS filaments, but the differences aren’t that big. Cheers, Marius Breuer
Hi,
Bed temp should be fine. It will help with reducing any shrinkage in larger parts. I would probably recommend wiping the slurry on while the bed is cold if you don’t require maximum adhesion. This will give a more even coating before it dries. I would also recommend making up different coloured slurries for the colour you are using and cleaning the bed thoroughly between colour changes.
I have found the best tool for removing really stuck parts is a wood chisel. It doesn’t flex and also applies an even pressure while lifting. It may pay to only start with this then move onto a thin bladed spatula to slide it under the rest. Make sure your plate is flat and secure on your workbench to ensure it doesn’t break. Keeping the flat of the blade flat with the glass plate too.
As below brushing the part seems to achieve the best results for even coating.
Thanks
Chad
Thanks for the tips guys. I’ll definitely give the brushing with acetone a go. Still prefer to print raftless as I’ve had problems in the past getting the rafts off. Sometimes I think I put too much slurry on also so I’ll try putting on cold as well.
Has anyone tried a PEI sheet on top with 3m’s 468mp tape underneath? Was suggested this as a build surface also to cut out the need for slurry/hairspray.
rspehr
July 26, 2015, 12:54pm
6
Looks like you are doing everything the same way I do. The hot bed temp seems OK. I use Unscented Aqua Net (Extra Super Hold). It works like a charm on my Mendel Prussa machine. On the Wanhao I always use the ABS Acetone slurry. The bottom of my parts always come off shiny. I usually lightly sand or scrape the bottom of the part to give it a more natural look.
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Use a piece of lexan and you won’t have to use masking tape or hairspray.
Water + sugar = the best
(200ml of destiled water + 20g of white sugar)
