Hello everybody,
I first tried to print this model: www.thingiverse.com/thing:205869
As you can see in the attach, the print never goes well near 75mm of height.
I am using a Replicator2 with Simplify 3D using pale ale gold PLA/PHA from @ColorFabb
Here are my settings:
First print (the one on the left):
Retraction is activated (default)
Infill: 20%
Number of shells: 3
Top and bottom layers: 4
Layer height: 0.1mm
Extruder temperature: 205°C
Default printing speed: 2400 mm/min
Second print (the one on the right):
Retraction is activated (default)
Infill: 10% changed at 75mm of height: 100%
Number of shells: 2
Top and bottom layers: 4
Layer height: 0.1mm
Extruder temperature: 215°C
Default printing speed: 2400 mm/min changed at 75mm of height: 600 mm/min
The rest of the print is simply perfect… it’s a shame!
Could you please give me a hand so I can troubleshoot this?
Thanks a lot
1 Like
GASP… all my layout went to trash and I can’t edit my post!
Sorry!
BjornTM
February 28, 2015, 2:30pm
3
My guess is that you are printing the top to slow. When you print very slow, the filament heats up further upwards and gets soft there. That’s when you risk getting it stuck. Infill at 100% seems unnecessary to me.
Thanks for your answer.
The fact is, I printed using a 100% infill and changed print speed to 600mm/min for the top because the first print failed.
Do you think that 2400mm/min is already too slow?
Successfully printed with these settings:
Layer height: 0.1mm
Infill: 10%
Speed: 3600mm/min
Shells: 2
Thanks a lot.
Hi! At the end of the print the model is getting smaller which activates simplifies3d slow down routine. You can find these senttings under the cooling tab. Basically simplify slows down the printspeed too much which causes the filament to clo, due to heat creeping upwards into the filament beyond the hot/cold break of the hotend. Try printing with adjusted cooldown settings, for pla minimal layertime could be 5-6 seconds. You can also play with the max amount of slowdown simplify is allowed to change. Because your print speeds to start with is already low, the extra slowdown is just too much. 40mm/s at 0.1mm is really quite slow. On the rep2 we usually print at 70/80mm/s at 0.2mm layerheight at 195C to 205C. That’s almost twice as fast at dubble the layerheight, so our output volume of material is much higher which helps prevent clogging hotends on slow speeds. Hope these tips help find better settings!
Oops, this was already suggested in the comments, didn’t see them when writing my comment, great that the print turned out well eventually.
Thanks a lot…
Your answer is very precise and help me A LOT!
I took care of that for you, @GloomySparker ! Pretty soon, users will be able to edit their posts, so stay tuned
That’s nice of you! (Nice inline image! ;))
1 Like
Another possible solution, or addition to your process, could be to cool the chamber above the nozzle. I don’t know the nozzle type for the Replicator2, but on the Taz 4, a replacement fan scoop is available that directs air over the chamber above the nozzle, allowing you to avoid heat creep for long PKA prints.
there may be something similar that you can do for the Replicator2.
Thanks a lot for your answer @Snortimer . In fact, the Replicator 2 has a fan that will cool down prints. In Simplify3D, you can set the speed of this fan layer by layer. After the first layer it is set at 100% by default, value that I let. Moreover, because I live in Switzerland, because it’s winter and because my printer is in the basements, the printing environment is quite cool (too cool sometimes).
The print speed hint was definitively the solution in my case.
One more time thanks for your help.
Oh, I agree that the print speed is a solution to your printing problem. I just thought that a dual-scoop fan guide might be an addition to your arsenal, and allow you a little more flexibility in your print speeds and layer heights. It’s done wonders for another Taz owner here in Colorado (who regularly prints very long PLA prints).
The additional scoop guides air across the radiator fins on the nozzle itself, rather than the print, to prevent heat creep. It happens to use the same fan that cools the print.
It’s two solutions to the same problem, allowing you more options in the future. I don’t know if you can make changes like that to the Replicator2, but I don’t see why not.
Thanks a lot getting involved…
