Glad those Printinz boards worked for you. I would have better luck getting it to stick to Teflon than those boards. Companies customer service was almost non-existent.
The only true solution that actually addresses the cause of the problem is an enclosure. Aside from that, brims help, “mouse ears” on the corners(like @wirlybird mentioned) help. I print some very high temp materials like PEEK (+400c) and the amount of warp can be extraordinary unless you literally turn your enclosure into an oven. In my efforts to over come such extreme warp I have noticed some interesting things. For example, the infill pattern definitely has an impact. On solid infill, I have noticed that rectilinear warps more than concentric.
-Jesse
I use 3D-EEZ on my glass plate. My MendelMax 3 came with a small bottle of it and I’m still using that bottle, since Dec 2015. It is water based, so cleans up with water. I’ve started printing more ABS lately, and I actually diluted it with water which makes it go on really smooth, and gives me a nice finish on the bottom of the part.
Thanks @MindFuLL my current printer is enclosed but I’ve seen warping with it “shut” and none when open, a lot seems to be so dependent upon the model and the “stick” that the enclosure is only one part of the equation and sometimes, possibly, not a large part, if you see what I mean.
It would seem to make sense that if we all agree that “mouse ears” work, and that generally speaking round objects warp less than rectilinear ones, that a concentric infill pattern might also be a good way to go. Worth some experiments I think!
I think it’s really important to make a distinction between fighting warp and preventing warp.
If you are fighting warp then you are just trying to make the parts stick to the bed. I can make any material stick to a bed but it doesn’t really solve the problem. On a large solid part, even if you get perfect super strong bed adhesion, it can just end up delaminating(splitting at the layers) because the warping forces are still building up inside the part. This also means that the part can look good while stuck to the bed, when it’s actually warped. It’s just being held flat from the adhesion and takes its real shape when you pop it off. Also, this does nothing for overhangs without a ton of support, which causes more warp.
If you want to prevent warp, then you are trying to make the part cool more slowly and uniformly. I hate warp as well and this is where I like spending my time & energy.
Your experience with the enclosure might sound counter intuitive to what I’m saying but you have to think about it more than just enclosure vs no enclosure. Getting this right for a specific material takes way more effort/experimenting than getting the right temp dialed in for the extruder or bed. You need to control the temperature AND the AIR FLOW. If you are using cooling fans or enclosure mounted fans to control the ambient temp, this gets way more complicated. For example, the enclosure can actually make air swirl around your print that would normally just flow past the part in one pass.
Obviously, every material is different. I print some materials that need to cool over a 24 hour period in 10degree increments if I want zero warp.
