If the printer does weird movement, it is most likely because it is told to do so by the gcode.
My recommendation is to use a different splicing software and see if it helps. I use the same printer with cura and simplify3d with no issue.
The line at the beginning is most likely to wipe the nozzle. Not to calibrate.
Keep us posted.
Hi,
I’m using a Wanhao duplicator 4 and makerbot also. The previous version of makerbot did not do this, seems they have changed quite a few things. It used to print the line and then go to print, now its like you said. So if you like makebot and don’t want the bed to go down then back up, try a previous version.
If you want to keep using the new version as others have said try lowering your temps, if you still have problems try increasing retraction distance (although not sure if that will work when just starting the print but you could try)
I have a duplicator, first thing i did was to get a smoother 3D printing software, I got Simplify 3D and that made the difference…
There are others Netfabb looks so cool but its price was or is above simplify.
FYI:
Check your gcode, it should be a loooong piece of code. If its short, the software didnt generate any code (all it does is draw a line like you described). Are you using Skeinforge? I had this problem with skeinforge once, i re-installed and that fixed it.
All makerbot software had a similar start code with the printed line, and yes the Makerbot 3.7 is a bit different, and it’s weird how it drops and raises the platform after the line. However I did find that dropping and raising it like that gets cleans the nozzle of leaking plastic. The reason you are having trouble is because your printbed is too high or too low. Then it doesn’t matter what the printer does before it starts, it will just ball up into a mess. Put your printer in home axis mode and move the print head around with a piece of paper under it. Raise the print bed until it grips the paper but you can still slide it. You want it close enough so that there is some resistance in the paper moving but you can still slide it. Print on a piece of glass with hairspray on it. Give it a light even coat before you begin the print/preheat. Watch the nozzle when it prints, it should be as close as possible to the print bed without it blocking the nozzle. I find that when I’m having trouble it’s easier for me to fine tune the bed height while it’s actually printing during the first layer. This way I can watch if any of the printed lines are not sticking or curling up due to the nozzle not being close enough. Your first layer should smush on the glass and be pretty flat.
Use unscented extra hold hairspray. I use aquanet. Your print bed is too hot at 70c, and that heatt will creep up into the printed part and make it too hot. Hairspray will eliminate your need to even have it on in the first place. Remember heat is PLA’s enemy. It works and if it’s still not sticking it’s only one of two things; print bed is too low, or you didn’t put the hairspray on right.
230c is insanely hot. For PLA it should be around 190-205, with some PLA even lower.
2 Likes
The new Makerbot 3.7 prints a line, drops the bed very fast, then raises it very fast, and then starts printing. The previous versions just print a line then start the print without the extra lowrider hydraulics procedure.
MrFex
July 7, 2015, 9:06am
14
Thank you very much for sharing your tips and tricks. I’ve been having trouble with leveling and I will try this again tonight. I’ll post back soon.
MrFex
July 7, 2015, 9:08am
15
Thank you for your reply. I am also curious about Simplify3d. I have found a version online that I test with but the results were poor. At the start of the print the nozzle extruded a great amount of filament on the plate (not even moving the extruder) which resulted in a big blog on the nozzle. I had to stop the print.
Can you share some of your settings for PLA and ABS? Which multiplier and so forth.
MrFex
July 7, 2015, 9:09am
16
Thanks, I’m happy to see you confirm this ‘feature’. I’ll try to find a previous version as you say. I hope it will help me with my first layer troubles.
MrFex
July 7, 2015, 9:12am
17
Hello PrimeME 3D, thanks very much for this. I’ll be sure to send an e-mail for some technical expertise. Great company right there!
This printer was bought from 3dPrima but i’ll be more than happy to take my business anywhere else if the service and support is good. I have a lot of plans with my printer and a lot to learn
MrFex
July 7, 2015, 9:13am
18
Will test this out and see if my adhesion improves. Features like this should in my opinion be controllable, especially when it is a new version feature.
MrFex
July 7, 2015, 9:13am
19
Great! Thanks … I love this community already. I’ll checkout the Google group. Thanks for all the help everyone!
1 Like
MrFex
July 7, 2015, 9:16am
20
Hi, that’s interesting. Can you help me get set up with Cura? Is Cura better than MakerWare? I thought the software wasn’t compatible with ‘sailfish’? So far I have tried: ReplicatorG, MakerWare, Simplify3d.
Thanks again I’ll keep you guys posted.
You’re having adhesion issues that no software in the world will help you with. Just get that nozzle so close its almost touching.
MrFex
July 7, 2015, 7:46pm
22
Thanks, it did. PLA no more drippings at 190c
MrFex
July 7, 2015, 7:49pm
23
Thanks, I did not realize that the nozzle could be that close. I have tried that today and it gets ridiculously close. Thanks for the tip
MrFex
July 8, 2015, 11:08am
24
Yesterday I had a few succesful prints using PLA at 190c and 0c for the bed. Some people say that the bed should be around ~50 / ~70c, others say you don’t need a heated bed for PLA. Could you elobarate on the advantages of heating for PLA?
It just helps with the first layers sticking to the glass, if you have adhesion problems. If not, and it’s sticking well, you can keep it off, however I think that with long prints it could potentially unstick, but probably not if you use hairspray (I’m going to have to test this). I guess lower heat is better though.
But I know for certain that I have a harder time removing the part if have the bed at a hotter temp. Also if it’s sticking, but not super super strong you run the risk of the nozzle moving the part when it’s half way done, especially if your edges are curling up from too much heat or if you are over-extruding the the nozzle hits the part. But that’s gonna be a crap print anyway. If it doesn’t unstick you should probably keep it off since you don’t have enough cooling as it is. I always have mine at 50-55c even though it might work without the heat but I do it anyway just because I have PTSD (Printer-Traumatic Stress Disorder) and I don’t want anything to go wrong. My symptoms are slowly disappearing now though, since it never jams anymore.
I do have same printer and also use makerware software.
this line is used to clean the noze.
this shouldn’t impact your bed level if well calibrated.
This buble is not normal
also try 195 deg and 50 deg for heated bed
regards,
