ABS print problem

[LRCCP]

Hello everyone,

I tried to print a Darth Vader pen cup using an Neofil 3D Black ABS and I obtained a strange result. It’s look like Warping but not at the buildplate interface (Buildtak at 90 °C). It seems to be a kind of Warping between every material layers…

My printer parameters was : Tnozzle = 260 °C, Tplate = 90 °C, Fan = 50 %, Flow = 107 %, Retraction = 4.50 mm

Did anyone already had this kind of problem ?

Thank you for your help,

Alexis

[zx81]

It looks like delamination are you using a enclosed printer? Changes in temperature / draughts can cause layers to split. You might also want to try lowering your temperature of the abs.I print abs at about 220-235 but that’s dependent on print speed and filament.

[ColorFabb]

I think you should turn of your cooling fan, if it cools the layers too much you’ll end up with delamination.

[TurtleCreations]

Indeed, print in an enclosed environment with no cooling whatsoever.

ABS shrinks far too much due to cooling to allow any draft etc.

[EASY_3D_STORE]

Have you cheched if it shows any missing layer in the layer by layer view in the slicer? It can be your file which is corrupted.

[EASY_3D_STORE]

Another one is layer thickness which is too high compare to the nozzle diameter (layer should not exceed half of the diameter)

[danilius]

The part is suffering from delamination, which means the temperature might be fine, but the speed too high to allow the layers to stick together properly.

I have printed much bigger parts without an enclosure, and not suffered any noticeable warping, so my conclusion is that the high bed temp (I print at 110C) is needed to keep the part sticking to the bed (I use ABS juice on regular float glass).

So, try printing a lot slower. It will allow the top of the previous layer to melt slightly into the bottom of the fresh layer. Also, 0.2mm layer heights or smaller will help, since the previous layer will be heated up more.

[LRCCP]

Hello,

Thank’s a lot for all your comments.

I am using a standard Ultimaker 2+ so my printing area is not enclossed.

For the other missing parameters, I print at 30 mm/s (so I think it’s not too high) and 0.2 mm layers height.

I will try too print it again without cooling and maybe by decreasing nozzle temperature. Not shure a lower temperature will give a better result because I think that temperature helps layers to stick together… Why do you think about that ?

Moreover the file seems good, I already print this pen cup with really good results using PLA, Nylon and also other ABS…

Thank’s for your help, I will send you the result of the second try

Alexis

[reputech]

1. Try to print as cold as possible.

2. Turn off the fan.

3. Enclose your printer. If you don’t have an enclosure use for example a towel to cover the sides. (Be careful not to burn it!)

3. Print thin layers. Try it with 0.1 mm

4. Print slow (20…40 mm/s)

5. Turning up the heatbed to 100…110°C will also help

[EASY_3D_STORE]

by the way if you need a PMMA box specificaly designed for your Ultimaker you can find it in my shop www.easy-3d-store.fr

[albiorix]

Need turn off cooling fan, TNozzle 240C, print speed 30mm/s, make a calibration, use raft, Enclose printer =)

[gr5org]

Fantastic advice so far. Just to clarify though - the problem is that your layers aren’t sticking together well enough meaning the printed layer isn’t melting the layer below. The simplest fix is to turn off the fan but then you don’t get good overhangs. To get good overhangs you need either some fan (but enclose the printer) or you need to lower the temp - that’s why people say to lower the temp - lowering the temp won’t help layer adhesion but it will help your overhangs without needing to use so much fan. It takes about 100 prints to get really good at printing PLA consistently. It takes another 100 prints to then get really good at printing ABS. Enclosing the printer is really very easy with the UM2. Put some saran wrap on the front. Put a box on the top - the type of box that holds printer paper is the perfect size - it has extra space in the back for the bowden already. With that much sealing you should get air up to about 40C. Don’t go much hotter than that without moving the steppers outside the printer.

[DMP3D]

It needs an enclosure around the printer. It’s de-laminating due to temperature variations and by having it in an enclosure it will help prevent this. It will also depend on your printing speed and layer height. About 0.2mm layer and 50mm/s would be a good starting point for a 0.4 size nozzle.

[Solid_Print_3D]

A tip:

Printing at lower temperatures is basically cheating to get the desired result. Layer adhesion will suffer, especially for larger prints like this. By the time the print heads gets back around to the same spot on the next layer, it’s had plenty of time to cool. It may work for a project like this, but if you were trying to print another project with similar dimensions that needed to be very strong in the Z axis, you will find that it will break easily, because you cheated and robbed the part of good layer adhesion.

-Enclosed printer, with high ambient heat, 110 print bed will still allow you to run fans in certain parts of the print for overhangs and details.

OK, all you " print at lower temp guys" Let me have it

[reputech]

Something about temerature:

->You should print as hot as possible for good layer adhesion

->You should print as cold as possible for low cooling stress

If I print PLA I use temperatures at about 245…250°C. In My opinion that’s a good middle.

[ctemp92]

I know this problem all too well, although I have never had warping that extreme. I usually print ABS in the 240-250C range, with bed temp of 110C. Also turn your extruded fan off while printing. You want the temp of the extruded filament to drop as little as possible as slowly as possible. Rapid temp change will cause warping. Is your printer an open frame or is it enclosed? Did you have a fan on in the room or A/C?

[Protofabrica]

Have you checked your Z-axis stepper motors? It looks like your buildplate might be jumping from time to time (skipping a layer by taking two or more steps downward) resulting to the sectioned layers. It might be because the power is fluctuating due to high temp requirement of the nozzle for printing on ABS. Solution wise, you can try lowering it down manually by 100 to 200 - also, it should not affect whenever you’re printing on PLA since it requires less nozzle heating.

[LRCCP]

Hello, thank’s for your answer.

The problem does not come from the Z axis in fact the infill is quiet good printed and to the “normal” level…

I am currently printing without fan and tommorow I will try by enclosing my printer.

I will send the result on this page.