I’m having problems with my prints sticking, I’m using a spray called 3DLAC which is meant to stop the abs from warping away from the heated bed. But I’ve had little success with prints. I’ve had this printer for around four weeks now (Wanhao I3) and its been nothing but trouble for me.
I want to start printing Helmets, models and other props but things like this keep happening. any help?
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Hi… i have a 4S and regularly print in ABS, everyone will have a diferent form to make it work you have to discover yours.
Using regular ABS
I place yellow painter table on the bed and use a brew of my own (many ppl do it) i have a small jar with acetone, industrial, very pure and throw in there every bit of Abs leftovers, and in the beginning a bit of abs filament, until i get a milky liquid… i pour a bit on the bead and spread it around until it solidifies.
I use brim too to help things not to warp, go light on the infill below 50% i usually do it between 20-35% and I usually only use 2 outer shells because the more ABS you have more tensile strength is generated from the temperature variations.
Don’t despair it took me 2 weeks to make it work consistently.
i always use abs, 3dlac is ok but …
1) spray quite a large amount of 3dlac
2) my bed is at 100* and i usually print abs at 270° ( yes is qute a lot but works well)
3) use a enclosure for your printer ( a cardboard box is ok)
4) the first layer has to be quite squezed on the bed
5) 50% infill is ok
6)… try dimafix is better than 3dlac
antonio’s comments are spot on…in particular in regards to a cover as you will have an extra challenge as your printer is not enclosed. I had an I3 but gave up on ABS and printed only in PLA. It was a lot less frustrating and a lot faster as the bed does not have to heat to 110c which is what I use for first layer ABS on my D4S and on my Ultimaker 2 (which I have a door and top for). Remember…3D printing is an exercise in patience and persistence. This is not the last time that you will be frustrated by something! In the meantime, unless you really need to print in ABS, switch to PLA.
pritt stick power stick glue works well red not green one
First of all what are your temps and what bed are you printing on? Make sure your bed is completely level. It could be that you are printing too cold.
ridingg
November 12, 2015, 4:49am
7
My advise would be… set your heat bed to 110c for first layer, then 106c after thats… Nozzle temp 230c for abs, next get yourself a bottle of acetone and place a small amount of abs filament inside the bottle… shake until abs has dissolved, then apply a small amount using a cotton bud to a cold Kapton taped heat bed.
Ive never had one warping print, and works every time without fail. Make sure you don’t apply to much of the abs juice or you will have trouble removing the parts.
Hope this helps and happy printing.
Gary
I have a solution:
Use this special ABS sheet. It is like “buildtac” but much cheaper and if you treat it nicely you can get more uses out of the same sheet.
How it works is that there is a layer of weaker ABS on a PCB sheet. The printed ABS filament bonds well to it, yet separates easily since the sheet’s ABS bond is weaker.
If you sit down and add up all the money and time wasted using tapes, sprays, and glues, it makes a lot more sense just to use a low cost sheet that will give you reliable results.
Want to try it out: buy it from here:
1 sheet: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191798568233?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&\_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
4 sheets: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/191798569645?ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT&\_trksid=p3984.m1555.l2649
or contact for larger orders, custom sized sheets, etc: InventionFactory@debeers-education.com
