Very simple, don’t buy either. Believe me, you want a Rigidbot. For $1400 you could get a 12x16x10 inch build volume, a super accurate printer (people run theirs at 80mm/s, that’s faster than I run my Makerbot Replicator 2), with a heated build plate, dual extruders, and a bunch of filament. If you want to save as much money as possible, the slightly smaller Rigidbot kit is 10x10x10 with a heated build plate, and only costs $580 if you build the kit yourself (which wouldn’t be a problem for you four) I’m currently saving up for a Rigidbot myself, and would definitely reccomend it.
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Oh, and if you go ahead with the Printrbot, do yourself a massive favour and switch out the hot-end for an E3D - I destroyed one of their Ubis hot-ends in about three months and didn’t fancy waiting for Godo when it came to buying another Ubis. The E3Ds are fully repairable, modifiable and highly reliable, whilst giving you the option of swapping out the thermistor for a thermocouple if you want to print Polycarbonate or PEEK.
Current Completed Printrbot Mods:
- Installed drag chain on bed cabling
- Swapped heated bed heater for a silicone heater pad
- Upgraded to twin e3D extruders
- Flashed custom firmware.
Any questions about any of that stuff just drop me a line.
If you don’t mind me asking, how did you destroy it? I’m kind of worried about leaving my running for overnight prints. I’m worried the kind of print failure where a giant glob accumulates and are easy to deal with on something like a Rep2 would completely destroy the Printrbot.
My first printer and the only one I have right now is a Printrbot Simple Makers kit. I upgraded it to almost 8x8x8inches, with a heated build plate, doubled the accuracy, and a bunch of other improvements, but that cost me $700, and is still inferior to a rigidbot…
there’s flash forge clone’s on amazon for as low as $799 for dual extrusion and a variety to choose from. Another thing to think about is the cost of material and replacement parts. Being that there’s four of you on the machine something could go wrong where you’ll need to replace a part. Happy bot shopping!
I looked into the rigidbot a little. I think we wanted to work with a slightly more established printer. I get the feeling the rigidbot has a lot of potential, but also has a lot of kinks that need working out compared to the printrbot and doesn’t have the same level of support. Does this sound accurate?
Not in my opinion. The quality of prints from a Printrbot is exponentially worse than a Rigidbot, I’ve printed on my printrbot before upgrades, it was really poor quality. The Rigidbot has very few kinks that I’ve heard of. I talk on instagram with a maker who owns a rigidbot, and then got hired by them. His prints are exceptional, way better than I get on my printrbot, even after I doubled its precision. The Simple Metal isn’t a bad printer, but it’s just mediocre. I believe rigidbot is really a much better printer and Im a printrbot user through and through, and have no connection to either company lol. Rigidbot is a small company, but it also means they can give much more personal support. I’ve contacted printrbot a bunch of times, and they basically just refer you to forums and send you on your way
Hey Nicholas,
There’s nothing at all wrong with the Flashforge that a few tiny 3D printed mods won’t correct. It’s great, sturdy machine and very reliable. Mine prints all day long at 100uM and 200uM on glass. Invest in Simplify3D at the same time and you’ll have years of happy printing on a bomb-proof box. Support from local resellers and Amazon is exceptionally good too!
Cheers,
AndyL
Pot8oSH3D
Rigidbot looks very interesting and reading about makes me want it to be all that it says it is. However in this case I can’t find a lot of reviews for or first hand experiences with the Rigidbot, and the ones I have appear mixed. From the sample of experiences I could find online it seems like the people who enjoy the Rigidbot the most are the ones who almost immediately upgraded a wide range if components. It seems to me that it has a lot of potential for a real enthusiast (and a frugal one at that), but might not be ideal for us. I have talked to quite a few of my coworkers and no one has heard much about Rigidbot first hand, whereas many of them say the Printrbot Simple is one of the best value printers available. I may regret the decision, but it’s hard to spend the money on a Rigidbot considering it hasn’t yet established itself.
I have very little experience with firmware, but I assume that if you upgrade to twin extruders you need custom firmware? (and is it correct to assume that the e3d hot end does not require any firmware adjustments to work?)
Also, what, if I don’t sound stupid asking, is a drag chain?
I’ve had the ‘dreaded glob’ before but it’s always been to do with the bed adhesion or print settings - if you set your extrusion multiplier a little too high or your retract amount too low you’ll get globbing which may attach itself to your print, or in very extreme case turn into a doughnut around your extruder nozzle.
I don’t know what specifically I did to destroy the Ubis, what I do know is I printed long prints, hit high temperatures and tried about six different materials before it gave up. And it did really well up until the point where I wanted to disassemble and clean it, only for me to find that no amount of cleaning would fix it, and it’s not repairable in the sense that you can’t easily change a thermistor or heat cartridge.
The Printrbots run a version of the Marlin firmware which you can download through their GitHub page.
Changing anything about the machine is as simple as; opening the firmware in the Arduino IDE, changing a single digit in the configuration file, compiling, and uploading. Thankfully Printrbot have a decent guide on the process and even a software program to help with the last step. http://help.printrbot.com/Guide/How+to+Reflash+Firmware+-+Windows+PC/78
Technically using an E3D does require custom firmware, but in the simplest way possible - you literally change a single number in the configuration file to denote a different type of thermal sensor, then follow the steps aforementioned.
Oh and drag chain is the stuff that stops your machine’s wiring from catching in the Y axis belt and shredding to pieces. It’s mandatory on CNC machines, but so far I’ve only seen it on well-built Repraps and E3D’s Kickstarter printer.
Thanks for all this information. It sounds like the jot end is the first thing we would be replacing and I’m glad that it won’t be too difficult. How hard did you find it adding twin extruders?
I didn’t say I would choose it over other printers. I haven’t owned both so I really couldn’t say which one’s the best. Just attempting to redress the balance as the Pro didn’t seem to be getting a look in and I thought you should have a balanced view before making a decision.
Too much? I really don’t know. If you’ve got 4 engineers in the place, one with 3DP experience I’d have thought you should collectively manage to extract the max out of your printer pretty quickly. The Pro’s easy enough to use. Certainly easier than most build-yourself kits. If, in the event you run into difficulties with your printer and you don’t want to spend your time on forums trying to decide between opposing opinions - As it appears you’d need to do with a Printrbot, the Flashforge would be a good option. It’s pretty much plug’n’play and it’s well-supported by the resellers.
I’m not saying it’s the best bang for the buck - I really have no idea about that. I bought mine because it was well rated in 3DHubs’ buyers’ guide and I’ve never regretted the decision.
And, at the end of the day, if anything weird happens, ya got me! 
Cheers!
AndyL
Pot8oSh3D
Thanks for the advice. I’m glad to hear positive feedback from a FF owner. Since starting this thread we’ve been going back and forth about what we want to spend. The Printrbot has the lead right now because of its relative price and the ability to upgrade it to compete with the FF at about the same cost as the FF, if not cheaper. But needless to say this decision isn’t proving to be easy.
You’re welcome, Nicholas,
If it’s any help, my Flashforge supplier tells me that the Wanhao Duplicator 4X is almost the same design as the Pro, comes with a glass build plate as standard and while it’s ( arguably ) not quite so attractive looking as the Pro, it does just as good a job. Oh! And it’s rather cheaper!
Cheers,
AndyL
Please contact us in Barcelona as we can build you guys a GREAT printer that you guys will LOVE.
We use Smoothieboards ( smoothieboard [smoothieware.org]) AND the always extruding Bondtech ( www.bondtech.se) extruders 
We can make you one that prints 200x200x400mm for that price as well and we’ll support you as we’re local tio …!!
OK guys,
One last idea. THIS is probably the best 3D printing bargain this week. My Up! Mini is an incredibly reliable little box, with simple-to-use software and support that, honestly, peels away and leaves not a trace.
Up! have just made their new “Box” available. It’s called the Afinia H800 in the USA but check this…
Maan! I totally wish I needed to buy a new printer today!
Cheers,
AndyL
Pot8oSh3D
I also got a blob, but since it was a large print, it crawled up and enveloped the hole hotend, even in the sock, it still worked though
My coworker has the UP Mini and mostly loves it (she mostly wishes she had more control over temperature). However, another of my coworkers bought the Printrbot Simple and they both agree that given the choice the Printrbot is a better option. With that said the Up Mini was high on my list originally.